One more thing to think about, if by some chance the service tec didn’t use dry nitrogen to pressurize and flush out debris within the system after installing the new compressor then the system could still be contaminated and another failure is bound to happen. usually at the front side of the cap tube therefor not allowing the gas to boil off in the coils and driving down temps to get cold. And so when I see that the low side of the system is in a vacuum state and the output side of the compressor is reading 110 PSIG pressure then there is a restriction some where in the system. Just to inform most of you out there a refrigeration system is never supposed to run into a vacuum state, it might be around 5PSI and that would be if the coils were frozen but never into a vacuum, especially when the evaporator and freezer coils are as warm as they are. Just last week I decided to put my refrigerant gauges on the system and exactly what i had expected, when i checked out the pressures on the gauges the high side gauge was reading approx 110 PSIG so i knew that the compressor was trying to push the gas, and the low side was in the negative side where it was actually in a vacuum.
The problem with the condensing coil being aluminum is that over time, the refrigerant starts to break down the condenser (being aluminum) and the small contaminants start to float within the system and that can cause the capillary tube to become plugged and not cycle any refrigerant within the system so cooling effect doesn’t take place. Turns out that when the sears tech came and installed the new compressor the first time, he informed us that it was a bad design from LG and that the condensing coil had to also be changed out at the same time with the compressor due to the fact that the condensing coil was made out of aluminum and not steel. sounds like were all in the same boat here, approx 4 years ago we purchased a Kenmore elite fridge and just last month the 2nd compressor went out just the same. BEWARE you can literally stick to it with your fingers if you touch it and it is working correctly. Also check that the evap unit is icy cold.
If the evap unit is not iced over, check that the evap fan works (mark a fan blade, close the door for a few moments then open door and see if marked blade has shifted. when it reaches this usually the ice has already melted, due to heater, and the compressor is started again to drive the freezer back down to 0 deg F (-20 deg C) with the evap fan running The temp in the freezer goes up to 32 deg F (0 deg C). This allows any ice to melt and drain away. The compressor is switched off as are the fans and the heater turned on. It usually occurs once every 8 -12 hours of the fridge running and lasts for about 20-30 minutes. If the unit and fan is iced over, this means that either the defrost heater is not working, the defrost timer is not working, the control board is faulty etc. If the evap fan is not working the freezer will be cold near the evap unit but not elsewhere in the freezer. The evap fan blows cold air throughout the freezer and also into the fridge as well. If the condenser coils are hot then you'll have to check if the evap unit and fan is iced up or not. If not it means that there is no refrigerant being pumped through the system, so perhaps the compressor is faulty. If neither side of the compressor is cold, are the condenser coils warm or hot?
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